So, funny thing… The Sahara does not have internet. See yesterday’s post below.
This morning started with a surprise hike along a river through a small Berber village. It was approximately 35 degrees Fahrenheit for our walk. Had it not been a surprise, we would have worn different layers, but the ones we had weren’t too bad since we were half ready for the camel ride out into the desert later today. Our guide, Abdul, walked us through the village garden where they grow alfalfa, almonds, pomegranate, cabbage, and beans. Each family has their own plot and they barter with each other for anything they might need. We clambered over rocks across the river, waded through the river, and did a small amount of hiking as well. The river starts as a hot spring and then cools as it travels until it ends about 32 km away. There wasn’t the smell of sulphur though, just warm, fresh water. After the village, which is only about 38 years old, we went into a kasbah in the old village, which is 900 years old. As part of that, we got to see a few donkeys having their breakfast. Finally, we had tea with a family who demonstrated how they make the traditional Berber carpets by hand. I got to try carding wool and realized the women have to have really strong hands to get the wool ready for spinning. They use many different plants and minerals for the dyes including turquoise and lavender, which give them incredibly bright, deep colors.
Lunch was unremarkable except for the pretty view of the village behind the kasbah. After lunch we drove to a little shop that provides costuming for the tours so people can get an idea of what traditional Berber clothing feels like. Mine was not at all flattering, but it was red, and I really like red. Ryan got called Ali Baba again because of his goatee, and his robe and turban suited him. Our tour guide took photos which he has promised to forward to all of us. I may or may not post them. 🙂
FINALLY the camels! We had been advised to pack a small overnight case for the camp, so Ryan and I both had our packs and expected to wear them for the trek out into the desert. Fortunately, not only did we not have to wear them, we didn’t have to strap them to our camels as the tour brought them out to the camp by vehicle.
Getting onto the camel was very similar to getting on a horse with two notable exceptions: 1, the camel kneels for you, and 2, there are no stirrups on the saddle. I asked about sitting with one leg up as I had read that is the best way to ride a camel for stability, but the saddles they were using are based on a horse saddle, and we were forced to ride astride. It worked out though. Riding a camel is very wobbly, but after a few minutes we all got used to it. Ryan was able to let go of his saddle with both hands and could take a few pictures with his phone. I could sometimes take one hand off, but I need to to take pictures, so was only able to get some when we were stopped so our drover could take pictures of us while we perched atop our saddles. At one point the camel behind me, which had been nicknamed Frisco by Erich, got bitey and tried to pull my saddle blanket off of my camel, and we had to stop so the drover could chew him out (the camel, not Erich). There wasn’t any more biting, but I kept a wary eye on him the remainder of our trip. When we got to camp, a few of the camels did not want to kneel for us and getting down was rather abrupt. Nobody fell, but there were several yelps of surprise as each camel either knelt of its own accord, or was yanked down by the drover. We got our tents, and then grabbed cameras to watch the sunset over the dunes. I think we may have gotten a few decent photos of the sand. Dinner was more tajine, chicken tonight. Thinking about tajine, it’s very much like a crockpot. Everything in it takes on a similar flavor based on the spices used as part of the cooking. After dinner came music and dancing for some of the more energetic people in camp. Unfortunately, the music was done on electric guitar and drums, and while nice, was very loud and was almost immediately behind our tent. The cousins went to their tent shortly after dinner, and Ryan and I walked out onto the dunes. We lay on a blanket on the sand and looked at the stars for a little while, but even with a blanket, cold sand seeps the heat out of you, so we didn’t last very long And went back to camp to get into bed. It’s cold enough out that while I’m typing this, I’m wearing my winter coat over my nightgown and an undershirt beneath it, also my pants from today and winter hat. It took several minutes to convince myself to take off my hiking boots and put on my slippers! Reminds me very much of the camping trips up into the mountains Ryan and I did when we were first married. We’ve both been known to sleep with our shoes on when it mountains got chilly.
Pictures from yesterday:













